People spend time at Plaza de Olavide in Madrid on July 2, 2026. In Europe, soaring temperatures, widespread wildfires, and dried-up rivers are forcing travelers to adapt and transforming tourism across the continent. (Emilio Parra Doiztua/The New York Times) By RYLEY OBER Standing on a paddle board in late July, Kryssi Whitehurst saw a plume of smoke slowly engulf the sky over a lake in southern France. Miles away, the Gironde wildfire would soon prompt one of the largest peacetime…