The spires of the Sagrada Familia church are seen behind buildings in the Eixample neighborhood of Barcelona on April 22, 2026. When the pope leaves, the Sagrada Familia and the surrounding streets will morph once more into a lightning rod for more quotidian concerns about the soul of Barcelona. (Samuel Aranda/The New York Times) By JASON HOROWITZ On June 10, 1926, Antoni Gaudí, the architectural visionary who designed Barcelona’s spectacular and still unfinished Sagrada Familia basilica,…
